Tromsø: Experiencing the Northern Lights, Majestic Fjords and Orcas

Skjervøy, Norway

In November 2023, I had the opportunity to visit Tromsø, a city located 350 kilometres above the Arctic Circle in northern Norway. Known as the gateway to the Arctic, Tromsø is the largest city in this region.

Tromsø is surrounded by quaint wooden houses, fjords, snow-capped mountains and vast stretches of untouched wilderness. I spent three remarkable days immersing myself in the beauty of this Arctic environment.

The majority of the city, including the university and airport, is located on Tromsøya island. Residential parts of Tromsø are located on the mainland in Tromsdalen and another suburb, Kvaløysletta, is located on Kvaløya island.

Tromsø, Norway

The city experiences dramatic shifts in daylight throughout the year. In summer, the city basks in the midnight sun, where the sun remains above the horizon for the entire day and night.

Outside of the summer months, Tromsø experiences the polar night, and is particularly famous for the natural phenomenon, Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). With its location above the Arctic Circle, it is the perfect place to witness this extraordinary spectacle.

The Northern Lights occur when charged particles from the sun collide with the Earth’s atmosphere, creating glowing bands and curtains of light. To witness this phenomenon in all its glory, it’s best to find a location with minimal light pollution and clear skies.

When planning to witness the lights, it’s important to remember that patience is crucial as they can take some time to appear. Be prepared to spend several hours outside.

Elsnes, Norway

During my trip to Tromsø, I longed for nightfall so I could venture out in search of the dancing lights. I was lucky enough to see this event on the flight to Tromsø out the plane window, but I also booked a guided tour.

As I gathered with my group in the city centre, and we donned our thermal suits and boots to brave the cold temperatures, I could feel the excitement build. I zipped my suit shut, and hopped inside the van. We travelled to Elsnes, which was a 100 kilometre drive from Tromsø.

When we arrived at the spot, the wait began. Patiently, we gazed up at the night sky, filled with hope and wonder. And then, finally, after two hours the magic happened.

I was left utterly speechless. Every display was unique, painting the sky with vibrant hues of green, pink, and purple. As I sat by the fire toasting marshmallows, gazing up at the sky, it was as if nature itself had become an artist.

Skjervøy, Norway

Aside from the Northern Lights, Tromsø is well known for its wildlife, so exploring the Arctic wilderness through activities like hiking, skiing, dog sledding or by boat is a must.

During my adventure, I embarked on a boat trip to Skjervøy, situated 400 kilometres above the Arctic Circle. The tour left at eight o’clock in the morning, as we only had a five-hour window of light before the polar night turned everything black again.

As the boat glided through the Norwegian Sea, I stood breathing the crisp sea air deep in to my lungs. I could not believe I was over 4,000 kilometres away from Ireland, surrounded by the majestic fjords and Lyngen Alps.

Despite my tendencies for motion sickness, I chose to embrace the adventure, putting on a brave face and steeping myself in the wonders of this Arctic paradise. As I stood there, marvelling at the choppy waves and the white-tailed eagles, I was startled by the sound of our tour guide shouting.

“Look, look. There they are. Humpback and killer whales, as well as orcas. You have been truly blessed today my friends.”

I gazed out at the water and watched the black fins breaking the surface and disappearing again. The sight of these incredible creatures in their natural habitat, against the fjords, was truly awe-inspiring. At that moment, there was nowhere else in the world I wanted to be.

Skjervøy, Norway

The city also boasts a vibrant cultural scene. Museums and art galleries showcase the region’s history and local talent, while music festivals bring a lively atmosphere. The annual Tromsø International Film Festival also brings filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts to the city from all around the world.

The city is home to the iconic triangular Arctic Cathedral with its glass facade, a masterpiece that stands against the barren Arctic landscape.

When it comes to food, Tromsø offers traditional Northern Norwegian cuisine such as Arctic char, cod, king crab, reindeer meat, cloudberries, and other specialties.

Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø

Meanwhile, the presence of the Sami people in Norway add a unique and valuable aspect to the country’s cultural diversity. Also known as the Sámi or Saami, they are indigenous Finno-Ugric people inhabiting the Arctic area of Sápmi, spanning across the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia.

I was fortunate enough to learn more about the Sami culture and heritage by participating in a reindeer sledding and traditional joiking (a form of Sami singing) tour.

After arriving at the camp in Breivikeidet, the group and I were warmly welcomed by the reindeer and the Sami people. We had the opportunity to taste Bithos, a traditional Sámi dish, as we sat in the authentic Gamme, a traditional Sámi dwelling.

The Sami people spoke of their deep connection with nature and how reindeer herding has been part of their way of life for countless generations. It was humbling to witness firsthand the immense respect they have for the land and the animals.

Breivikeidet, Norway

Tromsø is a place where dreams are brought to life amidst the Arctic wilderness. With its untamed beauty and captivating charm, the city will forever hold a special place in my heart.


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